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Tra Storia e Leggenda, il Cardoncello e Plinio il Vecchio (23-7 d.C.)

Gaio Plinio Secondo, conosciuto come Plinio il Vecchio (23-7 d.C.), ammiraglio e scrittore romano e appassionato di scienze naturali, nella Naturalis Historia parla anche di funghi. Alcuni di questi organismi sono “molto inclini al veleno” altri possono diventare velenosi se nascono “in vicinanza di chiodi da scarpa, ferri arrugginiti e panni fradici, nelle vicinanze di qualche tana di serpente, perché la loro natura è di assorbire qualunque tipo di sostanza velenosa”. Sono innocui quelli nati sotto conifera, fico e ferula; tossici, invece, sotto faggi e querce. Come non pensare al Pleurotus eryngii var. ferulae che compie il suo ciclo presso le radici della ferula, e all’Amanita phalloides tipica delle latifoglie? (Lazzari, 1973; Govi, 1986; Goidànich e Govi, 1997).

Fabio Colonna (1567 – 1650), napoletano e accademico dei Lincei, autore di numerose opere botaniche, nel libro Ekphrasis altera (1606) presenta, con chiarezza descrittiva e precisione nei disegni, il Cardoncello, Pezicae plinii, Pleurotus ostreatus, Lepiota procera, Clathrus cancellatus e Morchella procera (Lazzari, 1973; Govi, 1986; Goidànich e Govi, 1997).

Ritenuto espressione di forze soprannaturali e potente afrodisiaco, tanto da essere messo all’Indice dal Santo Uffizio, poiché avrebbe distolto nel 1300 i pellegrini dalla penitenza durante i pellegrinaggi del primo Giubileo sulla via dei Romei.

Negli scritti di Ermolao Barbaro (1454 – 1492), patrizio e uomo politico veneziano, commentatore  e traduttore di Plinio e Dioscoride, si legge che “Sono assolutamente  innocui i funghi nati dai rovi e e dai cardi, di forma rotonda, quando sono ancora chiusi, e che da noi vengono chiamati Spinulosi, Prunuli e Cardeoli“. In questi ultimi si riconoscono Clitopilus prunulus (Scop.) P. Kumm., Calocybe gambosa (Fr.) Donk e Pleurotus eryngii (DC.) Quél (Lazzari, 1973).

Il botanico e micologo svizzero Augustin Pyrame de Candolle (1778 – 1841) nel 1815 descrisse l’Agaric du panicaut – Eryngium campestre – come Agaricus eryngii DC. (de Candolle & Lamarck, 1815). Questa identificazione fu confermata da Fries (1821).

Giuseppe Inzenga (1815 – 1887), botanico, agronomo, micologo e docente di Agraria all’Università di Palermo, descrisse in “Fungi Siciliani Centuria I” (1865) e “Fungi Siciliani Centuria II” (1879) oltre duecento specie di macromiceti. Tra questi il fungo della ferula Agaricus nebrodensis Inzenga (Inzenga 1863) e il

Pleurotus nebrodensis (Inzenga)  poi riconosciuto come varietà di P. eryngii.

Orazio Comes (1848-1917), ordinario di Botanica presso la Regia Scuola di Agricoltura di Portici, nella monografia “Funghi napolitani enumerati” riporta interessanti disquisizioni sul Pleurotus eryngii var. ferulae (Lanzi) Sacc.

Il medico primario negli ospedali romani e micologo Matteo Lanzi (1824-1907) descrisse il fungo della ferula come Agaricus ferulae Lanzi (Lanzi, 1873, 1874). Era questo un fungo molto venduto sui mercati romani e discusso assieme all’Inzenga e ad altri micologi siciliani.

Pier Andrea Saccardo (1845-1920), laureato in Filosofia (a quei tempi la facoltà di filosofia comprendeva anche le scienze naturali) e Ordinario di Botanica all’Università di Padova.

Nella “Sylloge fungorum omnium hucusque cognitorum” (raccolta di settantottomilatrecentosedici specie di funghi) inserisce Pleurotus eryngii e la varietà ferulae e Pleurotus nebrodensis, ma anche Agaricus eryngii.

Le osservazioni macro e microscopiche condotte da Candusso e Basso (1995) considerano Agaricus eryngii, A. ferule e A. nebrodensis descritti da Quelet, Lanzi e Inzenga non come tre specie differenti, ma come tre distinte varietà, eryngii, ferulae e nebrodensis, di Pleurotus eryngii (DC.) Quél.

Tipico di luoghi incolti, degradati, rocciosi e privi di alberature, il Cardoncello è diffuso in Europa, nord dell’Africa e Asia (India e Cina).

In Italia è presente dalle Alpi, lungo l’Appennino, sino all’Etna. Caratterizza la cultura micologica di Basilicata, Sardegna, Sicilia, Liguria, Lazio e Puglia (Bresadola, 1928; Zadrazil, 1978; Cailleux et al., 1983; 1985; Ferri, 1986; Zervakis e Balis, 1996; Marras e Sisto, 1998; Marongiu et al., 2000; Ferri et al., 2007).

In Puglia è comune sul Gargano, nella Murgia barese e nel Salento (Rana et al., 2007). L’altopiano delle Murge Appulo-Lucane rappresenta la culla di questo fungo, concentra la maggiore produzione spontanea e coltivata.

Su segnalazione della Regione Puglia, il Decreto del Ministero dell’Agricoltura del 19-06-2007 ha inserito questa prelibatezza gastronomica nell’elenco dei prodotti d’eccellenza della Puglia..

Le coltivazioni dell’azienda Casal Manfredi

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