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La vera storia dell’ortaggio più amato dagli italiani. Il carciofo

Originario del Medioriente, il carciofo selvatico ha costituito fin dall’antichità un prodotto importante per i fitoterapisti di Egizi e Greci, ma pare che altrettanto antico sia il suo impiego nella cucina. Già nel IV sec. a.C. era coltivato dagli Arabi che lo chiamavano “karshuf” (o kharshaf), da cui l’attuale termine.
Nello stesso periodo Teofrasto nella “Storia delle piante” parla di “cardui pineae” che per caratteristiche di forma, proprietà e virtù sarebbero assimilabili ai nostri carciofi. L’uso di una qualche varietà di carciofo selvatico nella cucina romana è ricordata da Columella, che chiamandolo col nome latino di Cynara, conferma come a quel tempo si usasse consumare quella pianta sia a scopo medicinale che alimentare.

Nel “De re coquinaria” di Apicio, si parla anche di cuori di cynara che, a quanto pare, i Romani apprezzavano lessati in acqua o vino.

La coltivazione del carciofo da noi conosciuto venne introdotta in Europa dagli Arabi sin dal ‘300, ma notizie molto dettagliate sul suo sfruttamento risalgono al ‘400, quando dopo vari innesti, dalle zone di Napoli si diffuse prima in Toscana, e successivamente in molte altre regioni. Nella pittura rinascimentale italiana, il carciofo è rappresentato in diversi quadri: “L’ortolana” di Vincenzo Campi, “L’estate” e “Vertumnus” di Arcimboldo.

Il carciofo dapprima non godette di un eccessivo favore culinario, tanto che ai primi del ‘500 Ariosto affermava: “durezza, spine e amaritudine molto più vi trovi che bontade”. In quell’epoca, l’ortaggio iniziò comunque a comparire frequentemente nei trattati di cucina, dove si spiegava anche come trinciarlo, e la stessa regina Caterina de’ Medici ne divenne una sua estimatrice.

La fama afrodisiaca del carciofo, derivante con molta probabilità dall’aspetto fallico, andò di pari passo con la sua diffusione, ed era già ben radicata nel 1557, se il Mattioli nei suoi “Discorsi” scrive: “la polpa dei carciofi cotti nel brodo di carne si mangia con pepe nella fine delle mense e con galanga per aumentare i venerei appetiti”.
Un anno dopo il Felici concorda attestando che: “servono alla gola e volentieri a quelli che si dilettano de servire madonna Venere”.
Riguardo alla preferenze dal modo di consumare i carciofi nel 1581 Montaigne durante il suo Grand Tour annota che: “in tutta Italia vi danno fave crude, piselli, mandorle verdi, e lasciano i carciofi pressoché crudi”.

La marcia trionfale di questa pianta non conobbe soste neppure nei secoli successivi, tanto che ai primi dell’Ottocento il grande gastronomo Grimod de La Reyniere decanta: “Il carciofo rende grandi servigi alla cucina: non si può quasi mai farne a meno, quando manca è una vera disgrazia. Dobbiamo aggiungere che è un cibo molto sano, nutriente, stomatico e leggermente afrodisiaco”.

Ciò che distingue i diversi tipi di carciofo sono le spine che possono essere presenti o meno e il colore che può essere verde tendente al grigio o violetto. Oggi le varietà spinose più conosciute sono: i verdi della Liguria e di Palermo, e i violetti di Chioggia, Venezia e Sardegna. Un’ulteriore varietà di spinoso è quello di Toscana, di colore violaceo.
Fra i non spinosi, invece, troviamo il cosiddetto Romanesco, comunemente conosciuto come mammola, quello di Paestum e di Catania.
La massima produzione di carciofi l’abbiamo da novembre a giugno. Il requisito fondamentale del carciofo è la freschezza, quindi al momento dell’acquisto è bene scegliere carciofi pieni, sodi, con foglie dure e ben serrate.
Quando li si acquista devono essere sodi e senza macchie. Preferire gli esemplari più piccoli con le punte ben chiuse. Il gambo deve essere duro e senza parti molli o ingiallite. Se il gambo è lungo ed ha ancora delle foglie attaccate, controllare che siano fresche.
Per la conservazione si consiglia: se sono molto freschi ed hanno il gambo lungo di immergerli nell’acqua come si farebbe con i fiori freschi. Per riporli in frigo si devono togliere le foglie esterne più dure e il gambo; lavati e ben asciugati vanno messi in un sacchetto di plastica o un contenitore a chiusura ermetica: si conserveranno per almeno 5-6 giorni.
Si possono anche congelare dopo averli puliti e sbollentati in acqua acidulata con succo di limone, lasciati raffreddare e sistemati in contenitori rigidi.
Gustosi e versatili, questi ortaggi rappresentano una vera e propria miniera di principi attivi, utili sia per la digestione e la diuresi che per la cura della bellezza di viso, corpo e capelli.

In cucina i carciofi molto teneri si possono mangiare anche crudi, mentre gli altri vengono preparati fritti, alla giudia, alla romanesca, insomma nei più svariati modi. Si ricordo inoltre che in molte regioni italiane c’è la grande tradizione di fare con i carciofi le conserve sott’aceto o sott’olio.

 

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